© Radulph Hart George | The author climbs towards Nysætervatnet Like a piece of inky ribbon, the mountain road begins its long descent to the shimmering Romsdalsfjord below. Gathering speed, I adjust into a more aero position, the mixed woodland of deciduous and coniferous trees flying past in a blur, gradually giving way to open pastures awash with yellow flowers and pink blossom.
After twenty minutes, the road levels, now flanked by a narrow pebble beach and the occasional barn, painted in the traditional “falu red” colour of Norway (originally made from a mining by-product with excellent anti-weather properties, a formula dating to the 17th century). Two small wading birds take flight; seaweed wafts in the air, restoring my focus like smelling salts after the spellbinding descent. For the next 110km, I pedal and freewheel in refreshingly short bursts, rarely straying more than a stone’s throw from the waterline. The asphalt is almost flawless, and there is a total absence of traffic, leaving me simply to enjoy the parade of jaw-dropping panoramas. Cruising with the Storfjorden in the background © Radulph Hart George Descending through the Norangsdalen valley, towards Hotel Oye © Radulph Hart George Back at my base camp, the Storfjord Hotel, I put the bike away and sink into the outdoor hot tub with a beer, admiring the views of Norway ’s fifth longest fjord. There’s just time for a restorative massage before a meal of local hake with hollandaise, an off-menu pasta dish (knocked up at my […]